Sunday, March 31, 2013
'13 Day 4: Easter Sunday in Hawaii
Easter Sunday was spent, with the exception of quick Shave Ice run to Kawaihae, entirely within the Mauna Lani resort and it was a great day. Alex and I ran 4 miles, while Suzy, Paige, and Ford went on a long walk through the Fisherman's Trail.
Saturday, March 30, 2013
'13 Day 3: Volcano!
Today we drove around the entire island. It was a serious undertaking. In '09 we did a lot of driving on Kauai, Maui, and Oahu - but each of those islands are smaller than Hawaii, and none of them really works to drive a complete circle around (maybe Oahu does, but we were there for only a short time).
Our planned 6:30 departure time came and went as we realized our bodies were starting to adapt to the Hawaii time zone - but we did eventually get on the road by 7:30. Driving south through Kailua-Kona, we saw our first big-box / "normal" retail since we landed on the island (I guess Village Burger is in a mall, and it has a Starbucks - but still with a very "cowboy" feel to it - not like a normal "off the highway" retail facility). It was interesting to drive through this after 2 1/2 days of wondering if lava-desert Hawaii had any "normal" retail. Not that we were craving it - but it was odd to have left all of my socks at home and then wonder if there was any store on the island at which I might buy replacements. Kailua has that type of store. Kohala doesn't. Wait - why do I need socks on Hawaii?
Our Hawaii guidebook - and I think I plugged it on Maui also - but Hawaii Revealed is absolutely the best guidebook you could have. We have not been steered astray by anything written in the book and answers to any questions we could have are contained within it's covers. I bought the Big Island version on our iPad a month before we came, and found that I really needed a guidebook to be a book so we bought a physical copy here on the Island. If anyone goes to Hawaii they should get this book first. It's great to read before you do something, but then also fun to review after you've experienced something they've written about to see how their perspective compares to yours. Usually very close.
Anyway, our guidebook talked about Donkey Balls. Before this draws frowns - they are a Hawaii thing - chocolate covered macadamia nuts in round (ball) form. So we stopped at the store and it was excellent. The tattoo-covered Hawaiian native lady that helped us was great and we enjoyed the stop immensely. Why we spent $93 at a store called Donkey Balls I still don't know, but they do taste good.
So after Donkey Balls (that'll be the last time I say it), we kept going south down Highway 11 and were amazed at the landscape schizophrenia between lava desert and rainforest - not only across the island, but even on this short part of the drive. We next stopped at Hana Hou Restaurant and Bakery in Na'alehu. Suzy and the kids went crazy over the "malsada" - Portuguese donuts. I just remember the heartburn (actually can still feel it as I type, but yes the taste was good).
Our last pre-Volcano stop was at Punalu'u Black Sand Beach. This is a pretty cool "genuine" black sand beach, and we saw several large turtles up close. Given that it was a holiday weekend, there was a big local group having some sort of event there and that was interesting to see also. Lots of jacked-up, mud-strewn, 4 wheel drive pickups.
So then we entered Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park, with high hopes established by many who have called it the number one attraction in the state. We love the beaches in Hawaii, were moved by Pearl Harbor, enthralled with the landscape and micro-climates of Kauai, found Maui to be completely blissful in many different ways - so "number one" here on the islands is a really a high bar.
And if we'd seen a lava flow (which the rangers say takes a stroke of timing luck), it just may have crossed the bar. But we only saw steam - which isn't to say we didn't love Volcanoes Park - because we did - it just didn't reach the top spot with us. The steady rain probably didn't help - more on that below.
What we did do was pick the right trail to hike.
The Kilauea Iki trail was listed as "moderate to difficult" and appeared to be the sweet spot for our family and it delivered as promised. Four miles, good up and down, great scenery, wildlife, historical context (the kids Grandparents were in their teens when the crater we were walking on was a molten lava lake). Really fun.
Unfortunately, we were about to the word "Iki" on the crater floor in the map to the right when the sky opened up and a hard, steady rain started to fall. Being the only Dad in the park who didn't plan for rain, we spent the next hour hustling back up the crater wall, through the Thurston Lava Tube, and eventually back to the warmth and dry comfort of our minivan!
Our planned 6:30 departure time came and went as we realized our bodies were starting to adapt to the Hawaii time zone - but we did eventually get on the road by 7:30. Driving south through Kailua-Kona, we saw our first big-box / "normal" retail since we landed on the island (I guess Village Burger is in a mall, and it has a Starbucks - but still with a very "cowboy" feel to it - not like a normal "off the highway" retail facility). It was interesting to drive through this after 2 1/2 days of wondering if lava-desert Hawaii had any "normal" retail. Not that we were craving it - but it was odd to have left all of my socks at home and then wonder if there was any store on the island at which I might buy replacements. Kailua has that type of store. Kohala doesn't. Wait - why do I need socks on Hawaii?
Our Hawaii guidebook - and I think I plugged it on Maui also - but Hawaii Revealed is absolutely the best guidebook you could have. We have not been steered astray by anything written in the book and answers to any questions we could have are contained within it's covers. I bought the Big Island version on our iPad a month before we came, and found that I really needed a guidebook to be a book so we bought a physical copy here on the Island. If anyone goes to Hawaii they should get this book first. It's great to read before you do something, but then also fun to review after you've experienced something they've written about to see how their perspective compares to yours. Usually very close.
Anyway, our guidebook talked about Donkey Balls. Before this draws frowns - they are a Hawaii thing - chocolate covered macadamia nuts in round (ball) form. So we stopped at the store and it was excellent. The tattoo-covered Hawaiian native lady that helped us was great and we enjoyed the stop immensely. Why we spent $93 at a store called Donkey Balls I still don't know, but they do taste good.
So after Donkey Balls (that'll be the last time I say it), we kept going south down Highway 11 and were amazed at the landscape schizophrenia between lava desert and rainforest - not only across the island, but even on this short part of the drive. We next stopped at Hana Hou Restaurant and Bakery in Na'alehu. Suzy and the kids went crazy over the "malsada" - Portuguese donuts. I just remember the heartburn (actually can still feel it as I type, but yes the taste was good).
Our last pre-Volcano stop was at Punalu'u Black Sand Beach. This is a pretty cool "genuine" black sand beach, and we saw several large turtles up close. Given that it was a holiday weekend, there was a big local group having some sort of event there and that was interesting to see also. Lots of jacked-up, mud-strewn, 4 wheel drive pickups.
So then we entered Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park, with high hopes established by many who have called it the number one attraction in the state. We love the beaches in Hawaii, were moved by Pearl Harbor, enthralled with the landscape and micro-climates of Kauai, found Maui to be completely blissful in many different ways - so "number one" here on the islands is a really a high bar.
And if we'd seen a lava flow (which the rangers say takes a stroke of timing luck), it just may have crossed the bar. But we only saw steam - which isn't to say we didn't love Volcanoes Park - because we did - it just didn't reach the top spot with us. The steady rain probably didn't help - more on that below.
What we did do was pick the right trail to hike.
Unfortunately, we were about to the word "Iki" on the crater floor in the map to the right when the sky opened up and a hard, steady rain started to fall. Being the only Dad in the park who didn't plan for rain, we spent the next hour hustling back up the crater wall, through the Thurston Lava Tube, and eventually back to the warmth and dry comfort of our minivan!
Friday, March 29, 2013
'13 Day 2: Village Burger! (oh yeah... Waimea, Waipi'o Valley and Pu'ukohola Heiau)
After a day of not straying too far, we decided Friday would be one where we would venture out a bit more. After walks/runs/good early morning stuff within Mauna Lani in the early morning, we set out on an eastern trek across the top part of the island mid-morning.
Waimea (I guess traditionally referred to as Kamuela) is a cool cowboy town, not like other parts of Hawaii, more like northern California with a combination of true cowboys and odd ducks, etc etc etc. Waimea has character and this is well documented. But Waimea also has "Village Burger". And Village Burger served me the best hamburger, with the best parmesan fries, and the best vanilla-butterscotch milkshake I've ever had. I can't believe I didn't take a picture - the shot to the right was Alex's sandwich, mine looked similar. But it doesn't really matter because a photo would not do it justice. It was great.
OK. I know this is a vacation blog, and Hawaii is my favorite spot in the world and it should be all about the island. But I have to take a mild detour here because I just do. The kids thought it was silly that I said that on Friday I ate the best lunch that I have ever had - but I did. And I want to share.
OK - best lunch ever behind us, we set out to complete our trek across the state by driving to the Waipi'o Valley. We had tried to line up a horse-driven wagon ride to the basin of the valley but they were booked, so we decided to go anyway and see where our feet would take us. They took us about halfway down the steepest, coolest road on Hawaii before the rain and our better sense said that we should head back up. So those of you who have been on the basin floor, hiked around down there, etc. - save your comments, please. We know we missed the best parts - but we got a great flavor for it and had a great time as a family going down, and then back up in the rain.
We made our way back across the island in time to indulge in our first Shave Ice of the trip (see tongues below for hints at flavors chosen by two of us). We obsessed about this specialty in our last visit to the islands, and have been surprised at how hard it is to find in Kohala. This will probably change when we spend time down in Kailua.
Actually, before we hit the Shave Ice place we made it to to state park for the Pu'ukohola Heiau - a temple built by Kamehameha in the late 1700's. Really cool visitor center, displays, trails - and the Heiau is impressive. The history of these islands is amazing.
Back at our place, Suzy and I picked up take-out sushi from Monstera and the kids were more than satisfied with frozen pizza (though they did have a few california rolls - they weren't too keen on the nigiri) back in our condo before hitting the sack.
Thursday, March 28, 2013
'13 Day 1: Hapuna Beach and North Kohala exploration
This trip has already been a blur. Taking advantage of the time change (meaning that I woke up at 3 am Hawaii time on Thursday and Friday) by managing work email / dealing with a few work-related things for the first 3-4 hours each day eased my corporate conscience but resulted in me falling way behind on this vacation record. The whole reason to capture detail is so I don't forget (which I do way too easily these... what?). Anyway, I'll try. Kids are going crazy wanting Shave Ice so I may stop before I even start in this sitting.
Our first day on Thursday we hit Hapuna Beach early. Guidebooks say this is consistently ranked as the best beach in the entire country. It's often described as the "perfect" beach. We liked it a lot, but read too many of these comments before setting foot on the beach to be totally satisfied upon arrival (you know how when you hear great things about a movie before seeing it, or laugh out loud at the commercials only to be disappointed to find those are the only funny parts? or something like that). It was a great beach. We built a great sandcastle (SC1):
We just went where the castlebuilding took us with this one. To the left is a football stadium (Ford says the Ravens are playing) and to the right is just your classic pile of sand sculpted to look like something more than a pile of sand.
Wave riding was really good (particularly for Ford, they broke in a bit close to shore for those taller), and the setting was really cool. Our sandcastle was outdone by a guy who sculpted an over-sized muscle man sunbathing on his back - double life size. Really cool.
After Hapuna we hit "Just Tacos" for a late lunch. Then we enjoyed the pool at Mauna Lani Point, got orientated to our resort, and had a really great "transition" afternoon. We finished off the first full day with a great dinner at (sorry for starting with a chain) Tommy Bahama's here in Mauna Lani resort. Open air on the upper floor was great, but we were glad when they closed the shutters after a bit because the winds really picked up. Great first night.
Oh yeah. The kids had a spectacular time goofing around with this miniature pickle. I can't remember who ended up eating it, but it entertained at least two of them for all of 10 minutes.
Our first day on Thursday we hit Hapuna Beach early. Guidebooks say this is consistently ranked as the best beach in the entire country. It's often described as the "perfect" beach. We liked it a lot, but read too many of these comments before setting foot on the beach to be totally satisfied upon arrival (you know how when you hear great things about a movie before seeing it, or laugh out loud at the commercials only to be disappointed to find those are the only funny parts? or something like that). It was a great beach. We built a great sandcastle (SC1):
Wave riding was really good (particularly for Ford, they broke in a bit close to shore for those taller), and the setting was really cool. Our sandcastle was outdone by a guy who sculpted an over-sized muscle man sunbathing on his back - double life size. Really cool.
After Hapuna we hit "Just Tacos" for a late lunch. Then we enjoyed the pool at Mauna Lani Point, got orientated to our resort, and had a really great "transition" afternoon. We finished off the first full day with a great dinner at (sorry for starting with a chain) Tommy Bahama's here in Mauna Lani resort. Open air on the upper floor was great, but we were glad when they closed the shutters after a bit because the winds really picked up. Great first night.
 |
| Oh yeah. The kids had a spectacular time goofing around with this miniature pickle. I can't remember who ended up eating it, but it entertained at least two of them for all of 10 minutes. |
Here we go - Hawaii reprise - the BIG ISLAND 2013. Can it possibly stand up to our 2009 experience?
Peace quickly setting in! New type of stress arising - how to make the most of the next 9 days??
Arrived Kona Airport yesterday afternoon about 2:45 pm Hawaii time. Drove through the moonscape (the lava fields were exactly what I anticipated them to be). Checked in to condo at Mauna Lani Point and got in unit around 4:30 pm. Wonderful setting, great space. Very asian theme to unit decor, which is kind of unique and fun. The "Loo" family are owners and take unit-readiness, renter-happiness seriously and their special touches already make this more special than it otherwise would be. (for instance, every guidebook, historical novel, and picture book that I have or could have heard of is in the unit. So is music from every hawaiian artist. I haven't found Blue Hawaii on blu-ray yet but it's probably here somewhere).
We grabbed a nice dinner at Merriman's Cafe in the Waikoloa area last night - everyone says their restaurant in Waimea is great - so was the cafe! Then we bought some basic staples (ice cream and longboard beer) and returned to the unit because we all were tired at 7:30 pm! (12:30 am Minnesota).
Looking forward to getting acclimated today, probably building SC1, and just generally enjoying. Sun is now starting to make things lighter - Paige and I have been enjoying the lanai in the dark and now are getting revealed to the world here at 6 am so we're going to start moving. More later!
Arrived Kona Airport yesterday afternoon about 2:45 pm Hawaii time. Drove through the moonscape (the lava fields were exactly what I anticipated them to be). Checked in to condo at Mauna Lani Point and got in unit around 4:30 pm. Wonderful setting, great space. Very asian theme to unit decor, which is kind of unique and fun. The "Loo" family are owners and take unit-readiness, renter-happiness seriously and their special touches already make this more special than it otherwise would be. (for instance, every guidebook, historical novel, and picture book that I have or could have heard of is in the unit. So is music from every hawaiian artist. I haven't found Blue Hawaii on blu-ray yet but it's probably here somewhere).
We grabbed a nice dinner at Merriman's Cafe in the Waikoloa area last night - everyone says their restaurant in Waimea is great - so was the cafe! Then we bought some basic staples (ice cream and longboard beer) and returned to the unit because we all were tired at 7:30 pm! (12:30 am Minnesota).
Looking forward to getting acclimated today, probably building SC1, and just generally enjoying. Sun is now starting to make things lighter - Paige and I have been enjoying the lanai in the dark and now are getting revealed to the world here at 6 am so we're going to start moving. More later!
Friday, March 15, 2013
back to the islands.....
So....less than two weeks and we'll be back in paradise. Four years after our inaugural trip, we're headed back - this time to the big island of Hawaii. Looking forward to getting back into the mode as the next 12 days click by.
Hard to believe the kids have grown as much as they have in the four years since our last trip. Will be interesting to see how time allows this blog to be maintained during this trip. Last time we did three islands - this time, just one. Might make a difference.
Hard to believe the kids have grown as much as they have in the four years since our last trip. Will be interesting to see how time allows this blog to be maintained during this trip. Last time we did three islands - this time, just one. Might make a difference.
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